La Dolce Vita

When I say ‘Italy’, most people would think of Rome, Venice, Milan and the other popular kids. And thank god they do, that’s how the untouched Italian alleys remain untouched.

My friends and I planned to see Bologna, Bari, Lecce and Ostuni over 2 weeks. I booked my tickets to Bologna for June-July during the NYE sale, so I got Turkish Airlines for 46,000 INR return, aka a pretty good deal. When everyone says Italy is expensive, they mean Rome and its popular cousins are expensive. The lesser-known cities are fairly reasonable. If you’re travelling in the summer, make sure to book your stay well in advance. We ended up spending only about 20,000 INR per person for 2 weeks. And I carried €1000 in cash which turned out to be more than enough.

Getting a visa takes about 2-3 weeks, so apply a month in advance. You need a lot of documents according to your visa type, but for a single-entry, short term tourist visa (type ‘C’) from Mumbai, here are the documents you need.

It costs €60 plus charges for visa delivery.

Though Italy is known for rampant theft, we didn’t face any in the towns we visited. ATMs are few and far in between, so carry your cash and card. And most restaurants and squares have Wi-Fi, you won’t need to get an additional sim card.

We travelled via Trenitalia intercity, it was quite nice and reasonable. There are machines all over the station where you can purchase tickets from, there are slots of 8 am - noon, noon to 4 pm, 4 pm to 8 pm and 8 pm to midnight. And don’t forget to validate your tickets in the validation machine - you’ll find plenty on the platforms. But if you’ve bought your tickets from across the counter, you don’t need to validate them.

Your best friend in the summer, apart from gelato, is Aperol Spritz, a yummy wine-based cocktail which also happens to be cheap AF.

Coperto

Coperto is a ‘per-person fee’ (usually €1-2) that all restaurants charge whether you eat the bread on the table or not. It also relieves you of the need to tip.

And keep in mind that towns are shut during siesta (about 14:00 - 18:00) because it gets too hot, so don’t feel too bad about missing out on exploring something.

Get yourself a pizza, because you’re going to get hungry reading this extremely long-ish post.

BOLOGNA

This largely unexplored town is known

as la dotta, la rossa e la grassa.

The learned (its university), the red (its terracotta) and the fat (its food). Home to Europe’s oldest university (which you should visit, and go to its library!), it is full of hidden secrets around every corner. Its underground art scene is banging and the food is just as you would expect in a place that invented bolognese. It’s also the main hub from where you can travel to Modena, Parma or any one of the smaller towns in the Emilia-Romagna region.

If you’re landing at Bologna Guglielmo Marconi Airport, you can take the aerobus to the city centre. It costs about €6, but be careful while buying your ticket, because the machine might eat up your change if you don’t have the exact fare. Once you get to Stazione Centrale, you can take a bus to anywhere, the routes are put up at the stop. Bus tickets cost €1.5 and are available at tabaccherias (smoke shops) or you can buy then inside the bus. Again, make sure you give exact change. The bus tickets are valid for an hour after purchase. But to be honest, Bologna is best enjoyed on foot.

Things to do:

Stay near Piazza Maggiore and head there first thing. It’s the main square (and Wi-Fi enabled), where you’ll find a thousand places to eat, see and do.

Here, you’ll also see the Basilica di San Petronio, which was started in 1390 by the Romans with ornate marble. It remains unfinished and was later completed in brick. Next to Piazza Maggiore is the 16th century Neptune Fountain built by Flemish sculptor Giambologna.

Go to the Museo Civico Archeologico near the square. if you’re a history fan, you’ll love it.

See the leaning tower that puts the one in Pisa to shame. You can climb the tower for €5 and book it on Le Due Torri to avoid crowds. There are two towers with the same name, so don’t go by Google Maps, just go to the one near the main square.

We ended up walking to the other side of town, but that brought a very tired us to free seats at the cinema festival, Il Cinema Ritrovato, in the main square. An open air movie theatre! We saw 11 Lumiere short films and the 1928 classic, The Cameraman soundtracked by a live orchestra. This cinema festival usually happens during July and August, which is something you MUST SEE if you’re heading to Bologna during the summer.

Shop in the many lanes surrounding the main square and near the leaning tower, especially Flying Tiger for strange things, we loved that.

Walk through the endless porticoes - beautiful arches that are a blessing for the summer heat. They line the streets because they were where the merchants sold their products back in the day. And look out for the art on the walls.

Find the hidden canals for your Venice moment. The closest one to the leaning tower is Finestrella di Via Piella.

Visit the University and its library, it’s a sight to see. The street art around the University is as beautiful as its ancient counterparts.

Food:

Because we’re in Italy, we’re going to do a whole separate section on food, duh.

First things first - head to the award-winning gelataria La Sorbetteria Castiglione and stuff your face with the best gelato you’ll have.

Visit the fresh fruit and vegetable markets in the by lanes of the Piazza Maggiore.

There are a thousand places to eat in the lanes around the square, and the best thing is, you can't go wrong wit food here.

Mercato di Mezzo is a great place to start.

While Bologna is where spaghetti bolognese comes from, that’s not what it’s called here. It’s called tagliatelle al ragu.

Also try the tortellini in broth, tortellini with meat and the butter and sage tortellini.

You have Lambrusco, an unusual sparkling rose, Pignoletto, a sparkling white and a whole lot more to enjoy with it.

Have the piadena, a flatbread stuffed with mortadella (cured pork-must try) and cheese - the typical Bolognese sandwich.

And to wash everything down - a glass of fresh orange juice that you’ll get anywhere. Or espresso, if you’re a coffee person. And never, ever, forget to have the croissants stuffed with chocolate or crema, it goes so wonderfully with espresso.

MODENA

The thing about Bologna is that you can just wake up one day and just decide to go explore a nearby town. Which is exactly what we did. A 30-minute train ride away from Bologna, this cute town is where the world’s (best) balsamic comes from. While it is famous for the Ferrari museum, Modena is a lot more than just that.

Things to do:

Go see the Cathedral of Modena, a stunning architectural masterpiece. And standing next to it, is the Torre Ghirlandina, the bell tower and the tallest structure in Modena. For a fee of €3, you can climb the tower, get a great leg workout and beautiful panoramic views of the city.

Head to Piazza Roma, the main square to chill for a bit and eat the calories you’ve burned.

Then, get ready to see a museum like no other. Museo Della Figurina, an eclectic collection of figurines and memorabilia like cigarette cards, coupons, picture cards, menus, hotel labels, candy paper, stamped envelopes and trading cards amassed over the years by Giuseppe Panini. It’s the strangest thing, but so so cool.

Just outside Modena, you’ll hopefully find Casa Museo Luciano Pavarotti, a museum about the famous opera singer. We couldn’t get there before closing time, but I’ve heard some amazing things about it.

And finally, head to Bloom for some yummy gelato and time to cool off.

The thing about Italy in the summer is that everyone is always taking the trains to travel intercity. Thanks to which we didn’t get a direct train to Bari. After much rushing around, we decided to buy a ticket to Rome and then from Rome to Bari. As luck would have it, we ended up seeing Rome because we had about 2 hours. It was crowded AF, but we saw the Trevi fountain and the Pantheon thanks to my friend who’d been to Rome earlier. Though we wasted an entire day travelling and reached Bari at 10 pm, seeing Rome was a lovely mishap.

TL;DR: Book your trains in advance.

BARI

Oh Bari! You have my heart and all my money. A little port city, a living food fairy tale, Bari has all the charm of an old Italian town and all the perks of a modern city. Though Bari’s got its own international airport, we travelled by train to Bari Centrale. Apart from the imposing structures, stunning architecture, the great weather, the sea and narrow winding alleyways, perhaps the most beautiful thing about Bari is the fact that you don’t have to walk too much at all. Everything you want to see is within a kilometre. If Bari was a person, it’d be perfect.

Things to do:

Head to Bari Vecchia (old town), walk around its colourful alleyways. Eavesdrop on the gossip session between nonnas. 4 days and I couldn't get enough of this place. You'll find grandmothers making fresh orecchiette (ear-shaped pasta) and tons of non-touristy places to eat, as opposed to the main street.

Shop at some of the boutiques in the old town for cheaper stuff, but you’ll also find some of the high-end brands on the main street.

The beautiful Bari Cathedral is the first thing you’ll see when you enter the old town.

Walk off all the bread at the Basilica San Nicola, the church of St. Nicholas, where the relics are preserved.

There’s also the Bari ferris wheel that most people recommend, it gives you an amazing view of the sea, but we didn’t go there. Instead, we took a day off and headed to Polignano a Mare.

Stroll along Lungomare Nazario Sauro, the stunning promenade lining the sea that leads to the beach. There are benches along the promenade where you can sit and enjoy the sunset. At lunch, you can enjoy some fresh seafood along the sea.

Food:

We had a 3-hour lunch at this lovely place called Borgo Antico in the old town. Forget everything you ever know about tiramisu. Save some place for it here.

Salmon with pepper oil and lettuce. And the famous orecchiette with basil and cherry tomatoes.

5 minutes away from the Bari Cathedral, you’ll find a crowd on the street - eating the famous Maria’s sgagliozze (deep-fried polenta cubes), a famous Barese street-food.

Panificio (bakery) Santa Rita, open since 1968, is the best place for focaccina! Follow the smell of freshly baked bread and you’ll find it.

Panificio Fiore Bari is another one you should eat at.

And finally, stuff yourself at La Uascezze, have the set 7-course meal for 15 euros. It’s the BEST. ‘Uascezze’ is a term from Bari meaning a festive meal, a meeting between friends or a playful and cheerful state of mind.

You get 4 cold dishes and 3 hot dishes - burrata, ricotta with sun-dried tomatoes, lentil salad and cold cuts; A bowl of melted cheese, a bowl of melted cheese with speck and a zucchini cake. Followed by this dessert whose name I still can't find, but it was a soft bread stuffed with berry ice cream. This is, hands down, the most fulfilling meal I've had in my life.

POLIGNANO A MARE

This much instagrammed town on the Italian coast sits just a 30-minute train ride away from Bari. And the station isn’t too far away from the main street either.

Things to do:

Eat at Pescaria on the main street corner.

And then walk down to the famous Cala Porto, a white pebbled beach flanked by cliffs on either side. Jump off, take a dip, lose yourself in its crystal clear, blue waters.

Sing ‘Volare’ next to the statue of Domenico Modugno, the famous singer who grew up here.

Explore the centro storico with its alleys, balconies and little boutiques. There are a bunch of places to eat here, so follow the rule and pick a crowded place to enjoy a really good meal.

A day trip wasn’t enough though and I can’t wait to come back and explore every sandy inch of this beautiful tiny town.

LECCE

Third on our list was Lecce. Lecce is renowned for its beautiful historical structures, but the thing is, there is no public transport. And unfortunately, the airbnb we were staying at was not 15 minutes walking to the centro storico as mentioned. It was in the suburbs, 6 kms away from Lecce station and 3 kms away from centro storico. And while we were only there for 3 days, walking up and down was a pain. Copious amounts of gelato and wine amidst history did help. There are no must-sees in Lecce as such, Lecce is to be discovered through aimless wandering.

Things to do:

Start with Piazza Sant’Oronzo and Piazza del Duomo, the main squares. Stand there for a bit and take it all in. Admire the many baroque-style churches, columns and cathedrals.

Near Piazza Sant’Oronzo, you’ll find the Roman Amphitheatre. The Lecce Cathedral is in Piazza del Duomo, and it’s a sight to see at night.

Relax in the Giuseppe Garibaldi Public Garden, a green haven for the Italian summers. Villa Comunale is another park you’ll see on your way from the station.

Shop near the squares and lanes in between. Boutique shops, art galleries and markets are all open in the evening. On your way from the station to the square, there’s a really funky shop called Merzbau that you must see.

Join in the evening passeggiata after siesta - where locals of all ages take a pre-dinner stroll at Via Vittorio Emanuele II (the street between Piazza Sant’Oronzo and Piazza del Duomo). It’s possibly the best thing you’ll do in Lecce.

Food:

The lanes around the main squares and Via Vittorio Emanuele II is where you can get authentic Puglian food. You must try the rustico and pasticciotti. A rustico is like our Indian mava cake, but better. A breakfast staple, you get both sweet and savoury. Pasticciotti is like a cupcake, but MUCH better.

Our saviour on a hot day - Baldo Gelato. They have some of the yummiest flavours and sweetest servers. This one is ricotta with caramalised figs.

There are hundreds of places to eat near the squares, but the one place you have to eat at is Le Zie (the aunt). Three ladies have converted their family home into a restaurant - and the food is from their home kitchen. You need a reservation because this place is always packed (duh). Unfortunately, we couldn’t get a reservation, but we’ve heard the food is mad good.

GALLIPOLI

On the west coast, an hour away from Lecce (by train) lies the old island town of Gallipoli - meaning beautiful city in Greek. Accessible only by sea or a 17th century bridge, discovering Gallipoli deserves more than just a day trip.

Things to do:

Wander around aimlessly, get lost in the weave of narrow streets and stuff yourself with some amazing seafood and wine.

Then laze around on Spiaggia della Purita, the beach of purity. It’s a sandy beach, unlike it’s pebbled siblings. Swim and build up an appetite - another excuse to eat yay!

Walk around the narrow lanes of Gallipoli, you’ll find tons of places to eat, be sure to have the spaghetti with mussels a la Gallipoli.

You’ll also find shops selling olive oil and knick knacks. But if you’re heading to Ostuni, pick up olive oil from there because that’s where it’s made.

There are also little markets set up below the bridge. On your way back to the station, see the magnificent Castello Angioino di Gallipoli.

Like I said, a day trip just doesn’t cut it. There’s too much art, history, culture and food to fit in a day.

OSTUNI

The truth is, I didn’t like Ostuni so much because it was way too Americanized. There were few restaurants with local cuisine. But Italy’s Citta Bianca compensated well with its olive oil, maze of streets and Saturday markets.

Ostuni station is about 2 kms from the town centre, and you can take a bus from right outside the station, it drops you right near the centro storico. Stark white buildings shining in the sun in contrast to pots of green cacti and bright flowers, it’s a sight to see.

Things to do:

Start at the main square - Piazza Liberta, at the statue of Sant’Oronzo (dedicated to Saint Orontius).

Dive into the maze of endless streets and get lost.

Sit on the church steps and watch the many summer weddings and people pass by.

Ostuni’s main street off the square, is lined with souvenir shops, boutiques, leather shops and local olive oil shops. Taste the olive oil before you buy it, it comes in various flavours of pepper, basil, rosemary, etc. Full disclosure, I ended up buying 13 bottles, so make sure you have enough space in your bag.

Follow the winding street and at Ostuni’s highest point, you’ll find the Cathedral - a stunning piece of architecture. Unlike the rest of the Puglian baroque-style cathedrals we saw, this was built in gothic style.

Opposite the Cathedral, you’ll see the beautiful Arco (arch) Scoppa.

Visit the Saturday market in Via Gabbriele D’Annunzio, from 8:00 am to 1:00 pm. You’ll find everything from vegetables and fruits to cheese and meats, and clothes, shoes, bags, the works. Of course, all of it is at throwaway prices.

Ostuni’s always beautiful, but the sunset, oh man. Walk to Corso Vittorio Emanuele II and watch Ostuni’s sky put up a show for you.

Food:

It’s hard, but try and find cafes and restaurants in the hidden nooks that don’t have ‘American coffee’ on the menu. Our all-time favourite was L’Arco dei Sapori, meaning the arc of flavours.

The food was as delicious as the place was pretty. We had the mussels, spaghetti, nun’s breast for dessert, it was yummy.

Caffe Grande at the beginning of Piazza Liberta is a nice place to enjoy an espresso, sandwich, rustico, fresh orange juice and people watching.

There are two, so make sure you go to the right one. The other one is an overpriced, Americanized restaurant.

Garibaldi is another decent place near the square, but it’s slightly on the expensive side.

Don't miss the spaghetti with mussels and butter.

We mostly ended up going back to L’Arco dei Sapori for the fear of being disappointed.

Now, we had to make it all the way back to Bologna to catch our flight. So we’d decided to book all our train tickets at Bari station. And we had an overnight train from Ostuni to Bologna. So we carefully planned to have our last dessert at, you guessed it, L’Arco dei Sapori - tiramisu paired with dessert wine. At the minute this picture was taken, my friend asked to check the ticket, and I look at the time on ticket. It’s 9 pm and our train was at 7:48 pm. We'd missed our train! We finished the tiramisu and wine and looked for options. After much running around, our amazing, amazing Airbnb host, Carmen, was driving around looking for us and she dropped us to the station. It was a mad dash to catch the last train to Rome and then a connecting one from Rome to Bologna. We ended up at Roma Termini for a second time, and finally made it to Bologna to catch our flight. If it hadn’t been for Carmen, we would have had significantly high stress levels and low bank balance. But what’s Italy without a little adventure?

It’s true, Italy does make your heart skip a beat.