Firsts - A Solo Trip Across Vietnam
- Ishita Desai
- Feb 24, 2018
- 9 min read
So first things first - should you take that trip? Hell yes.
Travelling alone can be a lot of things, but in an age where everyone is connected 24x7 thanks to the internet, you can hardly call it a 'solo trip'.
Nevertheless, book those damn tickets already.
The following is a fairly detailed account of my first solo trip to Vietnam in January 2018 over 3 weeks, and spent a total of 90,000 INR. Brace yourself, it's going to be a long read.
Research, read and then research some more before you plan. Here are a bunch of blogs I went through before booking everything:
These are just some of the blogs, I'm sure you'll find a ton more.
Vietnam is a long country, so the temperatures from city to city are vastly different. I was travelling in the cold and dry season, so I went from south to north (Ho Chi Mihn City-Hoi An-Cat Ba Island-Hanoi). It was pretty hot in the south, but got cooler as I went further north.
It's an amazing place to visit and yes, it is totally safe for women. It's definitely safer than India. While pepper sprays are illegal, I always carried a swiss knife around with me at all times.
You can get your Vietnam visa here. The visa on arrival process is pretty smooth. Submit your papers and pay a $25 fee and you're good to go. You'll be asked to wait, and they'll call your name out, but pay attention because they're going to pronounce your name in their accent.
Vietnamese dongs (VND) is the local currency. The exchange rate is about 3 INR to 1000 VND. But because it is a minor currency, you'll have to exchange your money to USD before hand and then get to the airport in Vietnam and convert it to VND. You'll get a better exchange rate at a gold shop than you do at the airport. I exchanged some at the airport and the rest at a gold shop in Ben Thanh Market. Just ask your Airbnb host or anyone at the hostel, they'll help you out.
The VND starts at 1000 and goes up to 500,000. So keep your calculator handy at all times, unless you're great at math.
Get a Viettel sim card. I didn't take any minutes on my phone, because you can use WhatsApp to call. I just got a 4G unlimited data pack for a month, I paid about $8 for it. Though most of Vietnam is Wi-Fi friendly, it's always safe to be safe. You'll need Google Maps with you at all times if you are a walker like me.
I barely used any money for transport within the cities, I just walked around everywhere, or took the bus. You can rent a scooter or call for an Uber. (GrabTaxi is the Uber of Hanoi.)
Ho Chi Mihn City
It is like any metro city, but it has a lot to tempt you with. I stayed at an Airbnb opposite the Saigon Zoo for 3 days, but you can pretty much find great hostels and Airbnbs anywhere. I stayed in District 1, which is where the backpackers, markets and food stalls are. District 4 has a great food trail too. Pham Ngu Lao Street is the backpackers' area, I recommend you stay there.
Things to do:
Try the Banh Mi Opla, it's their breakfast speciality. (Banh Mi actually just means bread in Vietnamese.) Fried egg with fresh mint leaves, served with chilli dipping sauce and a baguette. Must, must, must eat at Bánh Mì Hòa Mã. Their banh mis are to die for.
And get some iced Vietnamese coffee with it.
Visit the War Remnants Museum and the Notre Dame Cathedral. You can skip the Post Office. Don't eat near tourist areas, it's bound to be more expensive. Look up local street food guides, there are plenty all over the internet.
Go to The Café Apartments (just above Nha Sach bookstore) - it's a 9-floor building full of boutiques, bars and cafés. It offers an amazing view of HCMC and cute photo opportunities. Though it is a little pricey, it's worth it. You'll need a couple of hours minimum.
Eat at Mango Tree and have the Mango Snowflake, it's their best-seller. It consists of mango chunks, condensed milk, shaved ice, thick aam ras and what not.
Shop at the Ben Thanh Market - it's got EVERYTHING. But bargain the crap out of bargaining. When they quote you a price, divided that by 3 and that's what you should be paying. Don't go crazy shopping, remember how much your bag weighs and how much extra luggage you can carry on inter-city flights.
I booked all my inter-city flights via VietJet. They're quite reasonable. Make sure you check how many kgs you're paying for.
Hoi An
If you're going to Vietnam, don't leave without visiting Hoi An. Just don't do it.
They're so cute, they build their shops AROUND trees instead of cutting them down. I stayed with Ms. Tri (you can find her on Airbnb under Pink House Homestay), she's the best. You'll get a hearty, healthy breakfast (see picture) each morning. AND a free bicycle to help you get around town.
How I got here:
I took a flight from Ho Chi Mihn City to Da Nang and Ms. Tri had someone pick me up at Da Nang airport for 300,000 VND. Hoi An is a 45-minute drive away.
You'll need a minimum of 3 days here; I stayed for 4. To see the Old Town, rice fields and the beach. Frankly speaking, I just spent all 4 days roaming around Old Town. Stuffing myself, walking and shopping, getting hungry again and then stuffing myself some more. It was a wonderful cycle. Old Town is one of their biggest attractions, apart from leather craftsmen. You'll need a ticket if you want to see the old houses and temples inside Old Town. It costs about 120,000 VND and is valid for the time you are in Hoi An. I didn't buy the ticket because sometimes, they don't check and I was really just interested in the food and markets.
Things to do:
Ride down to Old Town and park your bicycle for 3000 VND outside. Walk around and get lost. See the Japanese Covered Bridge, some old temples and houses.
Eat the best seafood Cao Lau with Saigon beer at Sao Mai. Cao Lau is a noodle soup dish with flat noodles, fresh leaves, your choice of meat and prawn crackers.
Eat at Nu Eatery. They make Vietnamese-French food. It is DIVINE. I had the pork steamed buns.
Shop. Again, remember how many kgs you can carry. It's extremely easy to get carried away in this place.
Drink the coffee at Hoi An Roastery. And then buy their coffee after you realise you are never going to get it anywhere. They have a neat little store close by called Cocobox that sells some amazing sauces, salts, jams and dark chocolate. The jams have unusual flavours like pineapple-cinnamon, mango-ginger, strawberry-mint, etc. Also, their 5-spice salt is amazing.
Now, Hoi An is FAMOUS for cheap tailors and leather craftsmen. I got a silk skirt stitched for 1500 INR and 4 pairs of leather shoes made for 6000 INR. I don't have the visiting cards of these shops, but they're in the Central Market in Old Town and the girl who made my shoes is called 'Hue'. The shoe shop is named after her and her sister-in-law stitched my skirt. You'll find tons of shoe shops, but take your time, look around and see what you like before settling on something. Ask them how long they'll take to make it and when you should come try it out. Of course, bargaining is imperative.
Walk around Old Town at night. Everything, including the Japanese Covered Bridge is lit up with lanterns and super pretty.
Try the Bahn Xeo at Faifo Coffee. They're fried, savoury pancakes made from rice flour and tumeric, filled with sprouts and your choice of meat. Usually eaten wrapped in leaves (lettuce or mint) and sipped in the heavenly sauce made with lime juice, peanuts, fish sauce, spring onion and a hint of garlic. Goes best with a big appetite.
This little place is unlike anything you'll ever see. I can't wait to go back!
You can take the shuttle bus to Da Nang airport, or an Uber. From Da Nang, I took a flight to Hanoi. I intended to go to Cat Ba Island from Hanoi and then come back to spend my last few days in Vietnam in Hanoi.
Cat Ba Island
If you're looking for a Ha Long Bay, but with less tourists, this is it. The best thing about this island is that is also comes with a National Park. So when you want to wind down from a hike, all you have to do is jump in the aquamarine blueness of the sea.
I stayed at Le Pont Hotel for 5 days, it's decent for the amount of time I spent in my room (which was very little). Full Moon Party Hostel is another great place to stay. I know it sounds like a Frat house, but it's really not.
How I got here:
You'll need to take a bus-boat-bus to get here. From my hostel in Hanoi (Hanoi Backpackers Hostel), I booked a return ticket to Hanoi. It cost $22 and took about 4 hours. The bus will pick you up from your hostel or a pick up point close to the hostel, take you to the port, transfer you to a boat and then from the Cat Ba port, you'll be on a bus again.
Things to do:
Nothing, for a while.
Relax. Get used to the island life. Sip on beers by the beach. Go swimming.
You can take a one-day Ha Long Bay cruise if you want. You can get reasonable tickets from Full Moon Party Hostel.
Once you're done relaxing for a bit, go to Cat Ba National Park. You can take the bus from the main gate (just ask anyone) for 20,000 VND. There's also a 40,000 VND entrance free. The hike is about 90 minutes one way, and there's a lot of climbing involved. For novices, there is an easier way to go up. The views are breathtaking, and not just because you hiked all the way up.
And if you really want to kill your calf muscles, hike up to Cannon Fort as well. It's a 20-30 minute hike one way. Cannon Fort was built on the highest point on Cat Ba Island to shoot any enemies coming in during the war. The views are, of course, gorgeous. Once you climb all the way up, relax at the Cannon Fort Café and have fresh coconut water.
Also go to Oasis Bar, it's quite famous, so it'll be easy to find. And get your hands on a Doner Kebab, it's basically a Vietnamese shawarma minus that mayo. There are plenty of places to eat and drink. Knock yourself out.
Hanoi
Hanoi has all the perks of a metro city and all the charm of an old French colony. It was really hard to leave this place, but c'est la vie. The backpackers' area is in Old Quarter, which has most of the monuments and markets too. You can take bus no. 83 to and from the Hanoi international airport.
How I got here:
I came to Hanoi the same way I left it, id est by bus-boat-bus.
Things to do:
I had already spent a day in Hanoi before leaving for Cat Ba Island, so I'll club that information too. I'd stayed at Hanoi Backpackers Hostel (not the original one), which was amazing. I got a bed in an only-female dorm room for 300 INR with breakfast. And there was free beer from 6 pm to 7 pm. If you can't do hostels, there are plenty of Airbnbs available. I also stayed at an Airbnb opposite the Golden Cyclo Hotel later, so I plonked myself in Hanoi for a grand total of 5 days.
We ate Bun Cha at No. 1 Hang Manh, Hoan Kiem District. Bun Cha is grilled fatty pork (cha) over a plate of white rice noodle (bun) and herbs with a side dish of dipping sauce or broth.
Hang out at Bia Hoi Corner. Fresh beer is served here every evening for as little as 5000 VND. The streets surrounding it turn into food streets come sundown and it is a food lover's paradise. Tables are put up on the road and there is little place to walk.
Yogurt Bar is close by and has the best banh mi I've ever eaten. I ate the banh mi ngan, which is banh mi with roasted duck.
Get a foot massage at Van Xuen - it's super duper cheap, I got it for 130,000 VND.
And if you're feeling fancy, a hair wash and blow dry at Van Nguyen. The service was amazing. The hair wash includes a head massage for a good 45 minutes. The price you ask? Negligible. Or 150,000 VND. Almost the same thing.
Walk around Hoan Kiem Lake, go to the Temple of Literature and the Temple of the Jade Mountain. You could also visit other museums and prisons if you have the time, though I didn't find Hoa Lo Prison too informative.
You MUST eat Cha Ca, a classic Hanoi delicacy at Chả Cá Thăng Long on 19 – 21 – 31 Duong Thanh. Cha Ca is charcoal grilled, tumeric-marinated catfish with a mountain of dill and spring onion. It is grilled on charcoal first and then brought out to pan fry on your table. Once ready, you are to enjoy it with rice vermicelli, chilli, roasted peanuts, coriander, shaved cabbage and the amazing dipping sauce made with lime juice, fish sauce, palm sugar, vinegar and garlic. You'll need a big appetite for this.
Go to the Hanoi Opera House to walk it off.
Then head to Bánh Cuốn Gia Truyền, to eat Bánh Cuốn, a dish with rice vermicelli wrapped in pork and pungent mushrooms, topped with fried shallots and coriander, and of course, the dipping sauce.
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Now, unfortunately, I had to go back to Bombay. So this marks the end of the visual tour.
Vietnam is a magical place and you'll make a lot of new friends, and you'll have an adventure and you'll kinda know what the NASA spaceship feels when it's just about to take off.
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